I took this shot this morning while I was out taking pictures of the town. I was a LONG way away 500 yards or so from this guy and it was really early so I had no idea if the picture would turn out at all. This is not really edited at all, the light was blue like this, I just cropped it so you could see the surfer.
We have not seen anyone out surfing this wave because it is big and the swim out is nasty. This guy stood here for about 5 minutes before going for it. I can only imagine what was going through his mind.